Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently defined its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to learn these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
